A Double Entry: Independence Day and an Afternoon with a Monk

Independence Day

Last Friday marked the 54th year of Cambodia's independence from France. To celebrate, Phnom Penh's Independence Monument, the most recognizable landmark in the city - and one I pass every day on my way to work and can see from my office - was given a face lift. The exterior of the Monument was painted and a ring of fountains were added to the surroundings and lit in an impressive, if not slightly Las Vegas style manner.

The arrival of Independence Day itself resulted in what I could only expect to be a large celebration around the Independence Monument. My co-workers told me the festivities would start early in the morning. With the Friday off from work, Shanti and I roused ourselves from sleep and walked the short walk down Sihanouk Boulevard to examine the celebration for ourselves. On our walk to the Monument, we passed many schoolchildren dressed in uniforms of blue skirts or pants and white button-down shirts waving the Cambodian flag.

As we approached the Monument, we could hear a live military band playing the Cambodian National Anthem on repeat. The streets around the Monument were closed and swarming with schoolchildren. Wading our way through the sea of blue and white, we found ourselves on the inside of a large circle of schoolchildren waving flags and holding up images of the king and the prime minister. Inside of our circle was another, smaller one. Instead of the white and blue surrounding us, was a mix of navy blue, army green, white and black. The inner circle were the "important" people - the army, navy (yes, Cambodia has a navy), the prime minister's personal bodyguards, high-level government officials, and diplomats.

From what we could tell, nothing was really happening. The oddest part of the whole thing was the complete lack of "ordinary" Cambodians. The streets were lined with schoolchildren and there was the inner circle of "important" folks, but no one else. It was bizarre. After a half hour or so trying to get a glimpse of the King Father (the former king who abdicated in favor of his son a few years ago), admiring the cute kids, and fearing the armed forces and their bayonets, we left. I'm told the King Father lit a flame within the Independence Monument and even released a dove. The celebration was capped off by evening fireworks on the riverfront in front of the Royal Palace, a sight which Shanti and I could see from our terrace at home. Let's just say that America knows how to celebrate independence a bit better than Cambodia - with real fireworks and a BBQ.

An Afternoon with a Monk

After a series of telephone calls and text messages, I arranged a time to visit the pagoda of my monk friend (whom Shanti and I met on the bus to Kep). On Sunday afternoon, we hitched a moto to the temple of the Venerable (the title for all monks) Aneta (he goes by Ve Aneta for short). Upon arrival, I called him and he met Shanti and me outside. The pagoda complex was fairly small compared to others in Phnom Penh, housing the temple itself, housing for the monks that study there and visiting monks, a small Buddhist university, and a high school.

Ve Aneta ushered us into one of the buildings, little more than the shell of a building built in the 1960s, before we entered his room. It was quite austere, even for someone that does not believe in the importance of worldly possessions. There was a mattress on the floor, a handful of books, and bare cement walls. Ve Aneta had his younger brother - who is living at the temple and is essentially a "monk's helper" (bonus: his name sounded almost exactly like Shanti) - get some plastic chairs for us to sit in. We sat and chatted only briefly before being shown to temple itself. Not particularly impressive, the temple was beautiful nonetheless, featuring a life-size Buddha and a mural of stories depicting various aspects of Buddha's life.

After our tour, we sat outside in plastic chairs, just chatting. It was a beautiful day - sunny and warm, with a nice breeze - and this, in combination with the setting of the pagoda, was incredibly peaceful. It did not feel like we were situated in the middle of a bustling city populated by several million people. It was incredibly relaxing and soothing.

Though extremely poor - he was lamenting the annual fees of about $100 he pays to go to university - Ve Aneta bought both Shanti and I fresh coconuts from a passing vendor. It was an incredibly touching gesture. Within the pagoda complex, we were clearly a somewhat curious sight - it wasn't the kind of temple that tourists would wander into - and we were eventually joined by several other monks. They were very curious about all aspects of life in America and equally puzzled (and amused) by our ability to speak a little bit of Khmer. All in all it was a very rewarding and calming afternoon and one I hope to repeat again soon.