Motorbikes

So for the past two weekends Shanti and I have been looking to purchase a motorbike. They're fairly cheap (about $400) and the most stylish and popular mode of transportation in Phnom Penh. Upon learning that we were looking, one of Shanti's co-workers - Vichhra - (who is pregnant and just got a car because she doesn't want to be a motrobiking mommy) offered to rent hers to us. We thought this would be a good intermediary step to buying, so we accepted hers for a nominal monthly fee, a few home-cooked American meals, and babysitting on call.

Today, I went in to work with Shanti to pick up our new (or almost twenty year-old) motorbike. Uncomfortable driving during "rush hour," which is mayhem, I decided to hang out for a bit and give it a whirl once the streets settled down a bit.

When I was finally ready, say 10:30, I had a little trouble starting it and perhaps a little trouble controling it, but I was on my way. I made it to within two blocks of our house without incident (save a racing heart) and turned on to the street before ours. As soon as I had done so, I was waved over to the side of the road by four policeman. I couldn't figure out what I did wrong: I signalled and I definitely wasn't going too fast.

The one policeman that spoke English was waved over and informed me I made an illegal left turn. I saw a "no u-turn" sign, but not a no left turn sign. Having been on a motorbike for not even five minutes, I was a bit concerned, especially since the bike wasn't even mine. He said the police would take my US driver's license and confiscate the bike until I could pay the 10,000 riel ($2.50) fine on Monday. Oh goodness...

Lucky for me, the police here is quite corrupt, making a mere $20 per month, and they said I could "take care" of it now for a mere 4,000 riels ($1). Unfortunately, however, I only had a $20 bill and 500 riels and I wasn't about to ask for change for the $20 or double one particular policeman's salary. I told them my house was close and they let me ride the motorbike to it to grab their bribe, a 5,000 riel note.

I thought about not going back, but since they started to write down something in Khmer on an "official" looking paper, I consulted Shanti and her co-workers via telephone. They said to go back and I think the police were quite surprised and definitely pleased to see me return. Upon making it back to Shanti's office, I was greeted with big smiles and nearly applause. Let's hope this is not an ominous start for my motorbike driving...